![]() ![]() ![]() Then looking at the electrical schematic (very handy) we just followed the lines back checking continuity until we got to the ignition switch nothing! I pulled it out and pulled it apart and he even took a paper clip and jumpered it, voila! Lights came on, it even started! I couldn't believe it! I'm hoping this helps some of you with some electrical issues. My builder came by as I was tackling the situation and he put my multimeter on the battery to confirm continuity. I turned the key one day & no lights, no amps nada! I started with the battery & replaced that but still, nothing. I have a 2008 Military Bullet bike and have been troubleshooting electrical for a year now. Still nothing? Have a sip of coffee and then, in a relaxed mood, take things step-by-step. If that doesn't work, try with the choke. Try starting the motor without the choke. You can turn the screw back down after the motor starts. That gives the motor a bit of extra throttle as it starts. Turn up the idle screw (clockwise as you face it) half a turn. Your first step should be to turn off the ignition and fuel tap choke and swing the kickstarter three or more times to clear the engine. You want to approach the motorcycle with a fresh eye. You have the fuel tap "on", the ignition on, the Kill Switch "on", the enricher (choke) "on" and you swing the kickstarter with no luck. You're all suited up for a ride on your Royal Enfield Bullet and it won't start. For advice regarding newer (or older) Royal Enfield motorcycles I recommend you instead turn to the experts on the several Royal Enfield online forums that exist. Very simple.PLEASE NOTE: This 2008 article refers only to the classic iron-barrel Royal Enfield with which the author was familiar. Outside nuts to secure the cable, and then insert the other end of the cable Which will then lift the exhaust pushrod. At that point, you should be able to pull the cable, Installing the new cable, you'll need to insert the cable into the cylinerīarrel and first put in through the spring, and then put the nipple through theĭecompression mechanism. Spring out before continuing and pull the old cable completely out. Which provides tension on the system will fall down in the tappet area. The nipple out of the decompression mechanism. Nuts where the decompression cable goes into the cylinder barrel, and then work Opened the tappet cover and located this mechanism, go ahead and remove the two It's in this area because the decompression occurs by pushing up theĮxhaust pushrod, which, of course, holds open the exhaust valve. To access where the cable pulls the decompression lever, which is in the tappetĪrea. The Exhaust Lifter Cable, which should be a clue of how it works!), you'll need In order to replace the decompression cable (also called Go to this website for more info and a video about it: Īlso, I was successful in replacing my decompression cable on my '45 WD CO by using the following procedure: ![]() Yes, it has to do with the wet-sump problem. That's why it must be shut off before you try to start the engine. If it doesn't, repeat everything including re engaging the compression release.Īt an idle speed, if the compression release is engaged it will let out enough of the compression to cause the engine to die. That will get the heavy crankshaft/flyweights spinning fast enough to compress the fuel/air mixture to TDC and (hopefully) it will start. Using the ball of your foot on the kickstarter, give it a good strong kick down to the bottom. Reset the compression release so it is no longer letting the compression out. If you don't have an ammeter, you will still be able to feel when the piston passes TDC as it gets much easier to kick. If you have the old points/coil ignition the ammeter which was showing a discharge will come back to zero as the ignition points open. Then, with the compression release open, kick the piston up to TDC. The idea in starting a big 500cc single is to bring the piston up to the compression stroke (where it will become almost impossible to kick over).
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